The Egyptian grill
The backbone of Cairo dining. A grill restaurant — sometimes called a masawi or meshwi — centres on charcoal-grilled kofta (spiced minced beef on skewers), kebab (larger pieces of marinated lamb or beef), grilled pigeon (hamam mashwi) and sometimes quail. The meal arrives with a spread of mezze: tahini, baba ghanoush, pickles, fresh salad, baladi bread from the oven. You order by weight for the grilled items — a kofta or kebab serving is typically 200–300g. Portions are large and shared.
What to order: kofta, mixed kebab, half a grilled pigeon if available, tahini, baba ghanoush, a plate of fresh tomato and onion. Avoid the rice and chips fillers if you want room for the protein.
Good grills are identified by the smell of charcoal from the street, a butcher-style display of cuts at the entrance and a busy room at lunch and dinner. Empty grills at 1pm are a warning sign.